When entering Tunis keep your eyes open for the efficiency, the cleanliness, the lack of beggars, and all the women wearing modern garments. Depending on your preferences, visit the Bardo museum, which is nice, but not big. Or the zoo, in the northern part of the city, which is very charming, well kept, and with far more animals than you would expect to find before entering. Next to that, you will find yourself surrounded by people, but no Westerners. But more than anything else, use your time in and out of the suq, stroll along the vegetable stands, head into the meat and fish market (between the suq and the railway station), and end up in almost any cafe, ordering Direct with three sugar cubes. And do not forget sitting down, relaxing, looking at people, telling quick moving young men to get lost, and start talking with everyone else.